Panther Inspections

Category: Home Tips

  • 3 Hard To Fix Conducive Conditions

    3 Hard To Fix Conducive Conditions

    In our last 2 articles we talked about how the best ways to reduce termite risk involve removing conducive conditions. So, if you haven’t read those articles, first follow the link here for the first article and here for the second to get caught up.

    In this article we’ll be continuing our discussion by examining 3 tough to fix conducive conditions and how to rectify them, therefore reducing the risk of future infestation from wood destroying insects like termites and increasing the probability of a smooth home buying transaction.

    These conditions are called tough because for most people and even some skilled DIY-ers, the fixes for these conditions will require more effort or time than they want to spend or fall into the “just hire a pro” category because of the knowledge, and skill required to do them. Some, unfortunately can’t be completely removed and therefore require preventative treatments which require a certified applicator’s licence to perform. That being said, finding, knowing about, and understanding these conditions is a big step towards fixing them. So, let’s dive in.

    Foundation corner cracks

    First on our list today is one of the most deceptive conducive conditions. Foundation corner cracks that extend into the soil. Corner cracks don’t usually pose a threat to the performance of the foundation or structure, however, because of the way the homes are built, they can create a clear path straight to the home’s framing when they’re wide enough and extend into the soil. Many termites are only 1 or 2 millimeters tall meaning that they can fit through some very small cracks. So, sealing corner cracks, not just on the outside but all the way through the crack can stop this potential direct access.

    Poor attic and crawl-space ventilation

    Poor attic and crawl-space ventilation is a conducive condition many people would consider calling a pro to remedy. Poor ventilation increases moisture in an area by trapping humid air, constantly high humidity will take the moisture content of the wood in an area. Wood destroying insects like termites prefer moist wood over dry wood because it is easier for them to eat and/or bore through. The good thing is that increasing the number or size of the vents in an attic or crawlspace increases ventilation, reduces moisture build up and the likelihood of attracting termites.

    Slab joints

    Slab joints are a less common conducive condition simply because most homes do not have additions. However, when they do have an addition to the first floor this normally means there is a break between the original foundation and the new extension called a slab joint. Similar to deep corner cracks, these joints even when very small, can allow direct access to framing. Current building technology doesn’t yet allow for seamless slab foundation additions meaning these are normally not avoidable during a home expansion or room addition. So, unfortunately, regular preventative treatments are the only way to “clear” this conducive condition.

    Why these matter more than the easy ones

    The three in this article have something in common that the easy ones don’t. Every one of them is hidden. A fence picket touching the siding is right there in front of you, but a corner crack that runs down into the soil, an attic that’s holding humidity, and a slab joint under an addition are all things a homeowner can live above for years without knowing. That’s usually why they turn up for the first time during a transaction, and why it’s better to know about them well before you’re under contract. There’s more on what a base inspection covers on our what’s inspected page and on our home inspection FAQ.

    If you, a friend, or client are buying a home and worried that it might have conducive conditions and want to know how to get rid of them, we can help. On any home more than a year old, a wood destroying insect inspection comes with our home inspection at no extra cost, so our clients get valuable knowledge on the current condition of the home including information concerning wood destroying insects. They walk away with a next plan of action and contacts for the correct, trusted contractors to call who can help remove conducive conditions quickly for those who can’t or don’t want to do it themselves.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • 3 More Ways To Reduce Termite Risk

    3 More Ways To Reduce Termite Risk

    In our last article, we talked about how the top 3 ways to reduce termite risk involve removing conducive conditions. So, if you haven’t read that article, first follow the link here to get caught up.

    In this article we’ll be continuing our discussion by examining 3 more highly common conducive conditions and how to rectify them, therefore reducing the risk of future infestation from wood destroying insects like termites and increasing the probability of a smooth home buying transaction.

    Wood piles touching the home

    Wood piles touching the home are an easily overlooked condition for many homeowners. Keeping firewood for fireplaces and fire pits near the home means it’s easily accessible, however, when that wood is touching the structure it can make a highway for insects to enter the home. Thankfully removing this condition is as simple as removing the wood or getting it as far as possible from the home, preferably on a raised non-wood rack.

    Wood to ground contact

    A less common condition, wood to ground contact could be considered as anywhere wood connects the structure to the ground. On most WDI inspections it refers specifically to an area where the soil line is so high that it touches the wood siding. This is one of the more serious conditions because many times when we see this and the soil is pulled away, we find an active infestation or evidence of previous activity. The good news is that this condition is as simple to fix as lowering the soil level while maintaining a good slope away from the home. In the case that the wood to ground contact is a wooden structure like stairs. The structure can either be removed or modified so that it no longer makes direct contact with the soil or the building.

    Low decks

    Low decks are a conducive condition that many people don’t know about. The issue here is that many low decks connect the home to the ground and in many cases, it can’t be seen because no one can physically get under the deck. Of course, this raises some concern. Some fixes for this include raising decks off the ground to a height that someone can easily crawl under to inspect for insects and using concrete and metal post fastening techniques to protect the wood from the ground, therefore, creating the necessary disconnect.

    Those are our 3 conducive conditions for today. We continued the subject in 3 Hard To Fix Conducive Conditions, which covers the ones that aren’t a weekend job.

    If you, a friend, or client are buying a home and worried that it might have conducive conditions and want to know how to get rid of them, we can help. On any home more than a year old, a wood destroying insect inspection comes with our home inspection at no extra cost, so our clients get valuable knowledge on the current condition of the home including information concerning wood destroying insects. They walk away with a next plan of action and contacts for the correct, trusted contractors to call who can help remove conducive conditions quickly for those who can’t or don’t want to do it themselves.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • Top 3 Ways to Reduce Termite Risk

    Top 3 Ways to Reduce Termite Risk

    The best way to make a home less likely to have a termite problem is to remove what are called conducive conditions. Basically, conducive conditions attract wood destroying insects to our homes or make it easier for them to enter unnoticed. We outline in greater detail what they are in the article linked here. In addition to attracting termites conducive conditions, can potentially halt a home purchase because many lenders, especially on a veteran assistance loan, won’t approve the loan until most or all of the conducive conditions on a structure are rectified and a clear WDI report is obtained. So, in this article we’ll be talking about how to rectify the top 3 conducive conditions, therefore reducing the risk of future infestation from wood destroying insects like termites and increasing the probability of a smooth home buying transaction.

    Fence in contact with the home

    A wooden fence that is in contact with or is attached to the home is probably the most common conducive condition we see in homes today. One of the main reasons is that many years ago it was common to attach the fence directly to the home for support, and therefore we see this on many of the older homes here in the Austin area. The issue here is that the fence posts and pickets usually touch the ground at some point and unless treated with a pesticide these materials create a delicious highway straight onto the home. Even worse this can create a direct hidden path into the home and framing if the siding is a type of wood-based product which is common on older homes. Hold on, don’t go tear down the fence because this is easily rectified. On homes that have the last “post” attached to the home in some way, that can be removed and replaced with a post that sits a few inches away from the home. Even easier is the situation where the last fence post is already sitting away from the home. For this, simply trimming the picket that touches the home away from the structure about an inch is all that’s required to remove the conducive condition. One last note on this is that if a new fence post is put in, it should be anchored with concrete in the post hole or secured to concrete with a galvanized steel post tie to reduce the risk of rot and termite infestation.

    Wood rot

    Speaking of wood rot, it is likely the second most common conducive condition we see in homes. It is caused by microbes slowly decaying the wood making it softer. In general, any wood that is soft and wet is going to be easier for termites to eat and inhabit, therefore making it more preferable and more likely to attract termites. The best way to deter wood rot is to keep the wood sealed and dry as much as possible. Ensure good drainage and slope around the home so that rainwater moves away from the home and doesn’t puddle or flood in areas increasing the risk of wood sidings becoming soaked. This will also ensure that the foundation settles evenly reducing the need for future foundation repairs. If rotten or deteriorating wood is found replace these pieces as soon as possible. Lastly, maintaining paint and caulking on any wood-based product will not only protect from rotting, it will prolong the life of the product.

    High soil line

    High Soil Line is something we see a good bit on normal home inspections and it affects how the home interacts with termites too. It occurs when the level of the dirt around the home is too high, or in other words, the amount of the foundation concrete that is visible is too low. This increases not only the potential for wood destroying insects to enter without us noticing, it increases high moisture and flood risk for the siding or masonry covering of the home. The fix for this issue is very simple though. Remove enough soil so that there is an appropriate amount of space between the cladding (exterior home covering) and the soil while maintaining a good slope away from the structure. Here we are looking for a minimum of 4 inches of visible concrete for masonry cladding, and 6 inches for wood siding and trims.

    We covered even more of these in the follow-up article, 3 More Ways To Reduce Termite Risk, and then the harder ones in 3 Hard To Fix Conducive Conditions.

    If you, a friend, or client are buying a home and worried that it might have conducive conditions and want to know how to get rid of them, we can help. On any home more than a year old, a wood destroying insect inspection comes with our home inspection at no extra cost, so our clients get valuable knowledge on the current condition of the home including information concerning wood destroying insects. They walk away with a next plan of action and contacts for the correct, trusted contractors to call who can help remove conducive conditions quickly for those who can’t or don’t want to do it themselves. There’s more on what comes with an inspection on our home inspection FAQ.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • Why Does The AC Smell

    Why Does The AC Smell

    Spring is the time of year when many of our air conditioners are switching back and forth between heat and cool. When this occurs we can get a musty gym socks kind of smell from the units known in the HVAC industry as “Dirty Sock Syndrome”. Usually, this phenomenon occurs only in Heat Pump type air conditioners. This can be caused by a couple of things but usually is due to excessive moisture content and correct temperatures creating a perfect habitat for microbial growth in the air conditioner.

    Clogged drain pans and drain lines

    WAIT! Before you run out of your home thinking you have mold in your AC, remember that mold is only one of the types of microorganisms and that bacteria are just as common so mold might not actually be it. In Texas, our air conditioners work by pulling moisture out of the air making it dryer (think less humidity) and cooling the air in the process. This condensate as its called has to be carried away from the unit, outside through the drain lines or excess moisture can build up, and cause the musty smell we experience. So, cleaning out the drain pans and drain lines for our AC units can help prevent this odor.

    Dirty evaporator coils

    Another culprit can be dirty evaporator coils. These coils are the ones inside the interior attic or closet part of the air conditioner and can build up dust and other contaminants from using poor quality air filter or not changing filters enough. These particles are food for microorganisms. So, cleaning the evaporator coils can also help. For this, only use soapy water, not acids as they can corrode the coils. After the coils are clean an antimicrobial spray such as Microban (a well-established brand) can be applied at regular intervals and allowed to dry on the coils to reduce microbial growth in the future. Bleach is not a good idea as it can corrode the coils and spread noxious fumes throughout the home.

    UV-C lamps

    If a frequent chemical application is not an appealing option or not working well enough an alternative is the installation and use of a UV-C Lamp inside the unit. These lamps emit UV-C, an odor free, sterilizing form of light naturally occurring in sunlight, into the unit completely destroying most of the microorganisms present. The main drawback of the lamps tends to be the cost of installation and the cost of new bulbs when they burn out.

    What we see on an inspection

    A smell is one thing, but the conditions causing it usually leave a temperature signature before anybody notices an odor. On a home inspection the infrared scan will often pick up a wet drain pan, a condensate line that isn’t draining, or a coil that’s cooling unevenly, and those are the same conditions that feed microbial growth. There’s more on what the camera can and can’t find on our thermography page. Thermal imaging comes with every inspection at no extra cost.

    The bottom line is that while dirty sock syndrome is annoying and obtrusive, it is a common problem and can be treated. If you need more info about dirty sock syndrome or how to treat it calling a licensed AC Tech is the best way to get info about your specific unit. If this is the case, we at Panther Inspections are connected to the top contractors in our area and have a referral for you!

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • Top 3 Tankless Water Heater Myths

    Top 3 Tankless Water Heater Myths

    Tankless water heaters come up a lot on inspections, usually with a buyer who has heard they’re the obvious upgrade. They’re good units. They’re just sold with a few claims attached that don’t hold up, so here are the three we hear most.

    They Save Money

    While these units are more energy efficient, many are 80% efficiency with some as high as 90%, the total savings per month compared to a tank heater, even an older one, could only be as little as $10 per month when the proper calculations are done. This may not be enough money to offset the cost of the unit coupled with installation (think financing) and the maintenance these units require. Which brings us to our next myth.

    They Don’t Need Maintenance

    Tank-less water heaters still need maintenance like a tank heater. They build up scale (think caked on minerals) inside the units piping that needs to be flushed every 6 to 24 months depending on water hardness and frequency of use. This task does involve some special equipment so, a licensed plumber experienced with tank-less water heaters should be contacted to help with this as it’s not something the average person wants to learn to do.

    Worth knowing around here specifically. Central Texas water is hard, so scale builds up faster than it would in a lot of other parts of the country, and a unit that’s never been flushed will show it.

    Instantaneous Hot Water

    While tankless water heaters can provide a nearly endless stream of hot water, they still cannot provide it instantaneously without the use of another plumbing component called a recirculation pump. A tankless heater saves money by only heating water that flows through the heater when the water is turned on. However, if the water in the pipes has gone cold since the last use, the unit will take a few moments to push that water out from the lines before the hot will arrive at the faucet. A recirculation pump constantly removes the cold water from a pipe to allow new hot water to fill in behind it, therefore, providing hot water instantaneously. These pumps, however, are not part of a tank-less water heater.

    All this being said, tank-less water heaters are still a good investment if you’re looking to install one. They should, however, be seen as more of a luxury/long-term energy efficiency item than an immediate cost savings item.

    If you are in the market for a tank-less water heater, calling your local plumber who is experienced with tank-less systems is the best way to get more info. If you or a friend is purchasing a home with a tank-less water heater or are unsure of what kind of water heater the new home has a highly qualified, licensed and insured Panther Inspections home inspector can help you get the info you need. Water heaters are part of the plumbing section of every base inspection, which you can see in full on our what’s inspected page.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • How Often Should a Fireplace Be Cleaned

    How Often Should a Fireplace Be Cleaned

    Come the first real cold snap, a lot of us start using our fireplaces regularly. So how often should they be cleaned? With normal use, at least once a year is a good rule. Many people do this just after winter so that the chimney is safe and ready to use the next time it’s needed. With heavy use or burning wet, sappy wood, a fireplace and chimney should be cleaned much more frequently. Possibly once a month.

    How to tell without guessing

    Either way simply looking up into your chimney flue will give you a clue. If your flue looks like the one above, it’s time for a cleaning. What you’re looking at there is creosote, the dark tarry buildup that comes off burning wood. A light dusting of soot is normal. A thick, shiny, crusted layer coating the flue is not, because that’s the stuff that catches fire. An expert chimney sweep should be consulted for your unique situation to make sure your chimney is clean and safe to use at all times.

    Burning wet or unseasoned wood is what makes it build up fastest, so if you’ve been burning whatever was in the yard, assume you’re on the more-often end of that range.

    What we look at on an inspection

    Fireplaces and chimneys are part of every base inspection. We check the flue, damper, firebox, hearth extension, and any gas log equipment for visible defects. That is not the same thing as a chimney sweep’s cleaning and evaluation though, and it isn’t meant to be. If a home you’re buying has a fireplace that’s clearly been used a lot, having a sweep out before you light it the first time is cheap insurance. Everything covered in a base inspection is listed on our what’s inspected page.

    At Panther Inspections we are more than just inspectors, we have an extensive network of high-quality professionals we trust to get the job done right. If you’re looking for a chimney sweep, give us a call. We have a contact for you.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026

  • Things To Never Do To Your Home

    By Collin Nowak

    The list of things we should do to our homes is virtually endless. Of course regular home maintenance is one of the most important ones you should do. Today we are going to cover some things that you shouldn’t ever do to your home. Some of these things will be obvious and some won’t. The list isn’t meant to be complete, just the big items that people make the mistake of doing most frequently. Let’s get started!

    1. Don’t do your own plumbing. Unless you’re a plumber, then by all means do it yourself. The rest of us however don’t have a license and therefore don’t know all the codes that protect us from things like slow drains and flooding. Now, we’re not talking about removing the p-trap to fix a clog. We also know that many of us are very accomplished handymen and women. However, the potential for water damage or code compliance issues coming up in an inspection later are just too high to risk it. Remember, these codes are for the safety of us and our families. Modifications to the plumbing system in your home should always be done by a licensed professional.
    2. Don’t park in the yard. This isn’t just unsightly or annoying to the neighbors. Parking in the yard can cause damage to grass and soil from lack of sun light and leaking chemicals from the car. If you just don’t have enough space for cars, consider widening the driveway, cleaning out and or expanding the garage, or asking a neighbor to park in front of their house. This just creates a nicer looking neighborhood too.
    3. Don’t move or remove walls without being certain they are not load bearing. The best way to know is by having a consultation from a highly qualified contractor or better yet a licensed structural engineer. They will have the knowledge required to identify the characteristics of a load bearing wall and tell you where and how far you can move it if it is. They may even have insights on what you can do instead of moving the wall.
    4. Don’t do bump-outs. Bump-outs are moving an exterior wall out a couple feet for a tiny bit of extra space in an existing room. This practice is costly with very little value in return. The better option is actually springing for the addition of a room. The per square foot cost of a room addition, while high, gives greater value to the home by increasing square footage at a minimum. If the addition if functional, well done, and well decorated, it can become a huge value to your family and money well spent when it comes time to sell.
    5. Don’t do your own electrical. Just like the first rule, but electricity is a different kind of dangerous. Electrocution can kill in a fraction of a second, and shorts or miss-wiring can cause fires when you least expect them. Please leave this to the pros.
    6. Don’t remodel too much. This one isn’t so self-explanatory. Remember, when you bought your home. You had a price in mind, and only looked in areas where that budget could get you what you were looking for in a home. Many new neighborhoods actually have the price range of the homes being built in the area, like “mid 300’s – 1M’s.” This typically becomes the price cap on the neighborhood and tends to determine a maximum acceptable value of a home with similar square footage in the area. If our home is sitting very close to our neighborhood’s “price cap” we might not actually get the extra $200k in value out of the $100k remodel we did. Basically we have to know the market and what we can expect out of it in light of the remodels we want to undertake. The best thing to do is discuss your remodel plans with your realtor during the planning process of your renovations and not start until you are certain you’ll get the return on investment you are looking for.
    7. Don’t be the person who doesn’t take care of your yard. No-one likes that person on the block, and it seems that every neighborhood, no matter how fancy, has one. Everyone has heard that these yards bring down property values, and it’s true. When you go to look at a house and the neighbor’s yard is over grown it actually makes the home you’re looking at a little less appealing, right? Absolutely! It’s worse when you live next to that person and you have to work overtime on your lawn and beds to off-set or compensate for your neighbor’s lawn. If you’re just that busy, hire a crew, or make a set day of the week where the whole family helps with the yard.
    8. Never fool yourself into thinking your pets don’t stink. Every animal no matter how small, produces odors and, sheds skin cells and hair. While living with and loving on our pets we often become so used to this that it doesn’t bother us in the slightest. To our neighbors and guests though it can be downright offensive. Your responsibility as a pet owner needs to include deep cleaning the house more regularly than others. This includes the carpets and furniture. Also, open the windows whenever weather permits to bring in as much fresh air as possible. Lastly, a fresh coat of paint works wonders for getting rid of strong odors stuck to the walls. These things are crucial if you are in the selling process.

    A note on the first and fifth ones, since those are the two we run into most. Unpermitted plumbing and electrical work is one of the more common things we write up, and it usually wasn’t done by the person selling the house, it was done two owners ago. That’s why it’s worth having somebody look before you buy rather than after. You can see everything a base inspection covers on our what’s inspected page.

    If you’re buying, selling, or just want to know what shape your own home is in before you start a project, give us a call and we’ll get you scheduled.

    Schedule an Inspection
    Get a Quote

    Updated July 2026